Compare: Rolled Hem Foot, Ball Hemmer Foot, and Spring Hemmer Foot on an Industrial Sewing Machine

There are so many sewing machine feet to choose from, it can get overwhelming deciding which foot is best for the job.  Why bother, right?  If using a specific foot for a specific job could drastically cut the sewing time down and offer professional looking results, wouldn’t you want to try?  I sure would.

Home sewing machines usually come with a fabulous manual explaining what each foot is for and a tutorial explaining how to use it.  Industrial machines don’t always offer such advice, at least mine didn’t.  With a 5 page manual, written in a language I don’t speak, I am surprised I got the thing put together in the first place!  I don’t use this machine as frequently as all the others, mainly because it’s loud, doesn’t have a thread cutting feature and I don’t have any accessories for it.  I bought it for speed and that it has.

Scanning the list of additional feet for industrial machines, I found the feet to be are very inexpensive, but again I ran into the issue of which foot is the right foot for the job.  I thought I would start testing some of these feet and share with you my findings.

A Narrow Rolled Hem

I sew a lot of garments with sheer fabrics (especially this months wardrobe challenge;  Dress the Part) and my go-to stitch is usually a narrow rolled hem on the serger – its super fast and looks professional.  But sometimes a rolled hem on the sewing machine would be more appropriate. I found 3 different feet for the industrial machine:

From left to right: Rolled Hem Foot, Ball Hemmer Foot, Double Fold Spring Hemmer Foot

Rolled Hem Foot

You have probably seen the Rolled Hem Foot, as it comes with most home sewing machines.  This is the only foot I had ever seen used for the job.  It does make a rolled hem easy, but has its challenges as well.  Getting over thick seams can be interesting and sometimes the fabric doesn’t feed evenly.  Of course there are tricks:

• Hold the fabric to the left side of the foot as it feeds into the machine and trimming seam allowances for less bulk.

 

Results:  A nice rolled hem, I had to use the tweezers to get the fabric started and the rolled hem is a little uneven.  With practice this foot will work.

If you have an industrial machine, you have more options and each offers different results:

Ball Hemmer Foot

This foot has a plate that covers the front feed dogs allowing the fabric to feed perfectly.  You can see the ball at the tip of the foot, the fabric will roll over that ball as it double folds into a narrow hem.  I must say, I love this foot!  This is how it works:

• Feed the fabric into the foot, above the plate.  Notice how the place covers the front feed dogs. Insert the fabric the same way you would for the rolled hem foot.

• The fabric folds over the ball.

• Hold the fabric a little to the left side of the foot as the fabric feeds into the foot (as shown above).  Stitch.

•  Results:  A perfect narrow hem!  This foot offers the easiest rolled hem I have ever tried!  I hardly had to do anything with the fabric except guide it into the foot.  I even sewed at a high-speed and the rolled hem is perfectly even.  A definite A+++++

Double Fold Spring Hemmer Foot

The “spring” part is what intrigued me about this foot.  You can see the foot looks very similar to the Ball Hemmer Foot, yet there is not a ball.  Instead, there is a movable area that the fabric will go through. Look closely, this is the back of the foot:

Looking at the left photo first: see the corner touching my finger tip.  When I do nothing with that corner, the opening on the foot remains unchanged (see opening at yellow arrow).

Take a look at the right photo:  Here I have pushed that corner in and the opening gets larger (see yellow arrow).

Now we know what the “spring” means.  This opening adjusts for the thickness of fabric as the fabric flows through.

• There is a plate protecting the fabric from the front feed dogs, just like the ball hemmer.  Slide the fabric on the top of the plate.

• Again, feed the fabric into the foot and stitch.

Results:  Another perfect rolled hem!  Just as easy as the ball hemmer foot.

My favorite foot for the rolled hem on silk charmeuse is the Ball Hemmer Foot. The rolled hem was a little thicker than the other two and perfect!

What about crossing seams and thicker fabrics?  I will test these and more, and let you know the results.  So far both feet are winners!

I also have to check to see if these feet will work on my Brother PQ1500.  The PQ1500 straight stitch machine is just like an industrial machine with speed and ease of use, plus it’s not attached to a large table and easy to move around.  Fingers crosses on that one!  Otherwise, I have my eye on the Brother Industrial Machine used on Project Runway.  Do you have an industrial machine? Have you tried these rolled hem feet?

Cheers!

 

 

 

Simply Serged! April’s Wardrobe Challenge How to Sew Simple Apparel

As we plug along with the wardrobe challenge, last month offered a chance for sewing designer jeans.  Jeans have become a staple in many of our wardrobes and after you get the hang of the fitting (I still have a few blog posts coming to help) and sewing techniques, jeans can really be fun to sew!  Taking in consideration that jeans can take a while to finish, I am adding an ongoing monthly prize for the best jeans on the Wardrobe Challenge flickr group!  I know many of you mentioned you were not finished and others might join the wardrobe challenge throughout the year – jeans are my favorite and now you can win each month by adding a new pair of jeans 🙂

Onto April’s Challenge – Simply Serged!

This challenge is to come up with fashionable apparel that is quick and easy to finish, yet doesn’t look it.  I am a little selfish on this challenge as I am trying to finish my new serging book (available next spring) and if you all are working on serged outfits, I thought that would inspire me to finish faster 🙂  Also, this month is National Serging Month – not sure what that really means, except you will probably get a good deal on buying a serger if you are in the market for one. 🙂   The serger offers so much more than finishing seams and after sewing jeans or a couture jacket, it is so nice to jump on the serger and finish a silk top in less than an hour!  Take a look at this top:

Fabric:  Silk Charmeuse    Time: cut to finish 1 hour 30 minutes

Stitches: 3-thread overlock, coversitch, narrow rolled hem

This is just one example, but I will try to include some of my favorite creative stitches throughout the month.  I just received my new order from WAWAK Sewing  with a batch of thread.  I am trying out new ideas for the serger … I can hardly wait to test them and let you know the results!

Don’t have a serger?  Well, now is the time to buy one, but if you are not quite ready for one you can still participate in the wardrobe challenge on Pinterest.  I am still offering a prize for jeans on the Flickr group and you can still sew simple garments adding to your overall wardrobe.

Make sure to say Thanks and Like the sponsors pages on Facebook:  Brother,  Threads Magazine, Sew Stylish Magazine, WAWAK Sewing, Coats & Clark, It’s Sew Easy TV, and me 🙂

That’s all for now, onto laying out my fabrics.   Are you enjoying the challenge so far?

Cheers & Happy Serging,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Winner’s of the February Ruching & Shirring Wardrobe Challenge!

I am so excited to announce February’s wardrobe challenge winners!  In case you didn’t notice, the competition is getting fierce – check out the Wardrobe Challenge flickr page and you will see some talented designers!

Thanks again to all the sponsors in this year’s challenge!

It took a little longer than expected to get February’s results, simply because a few of the judges were on spring break, thankfully that only happens once a year 🙂 Now we are back on schedule!

February’s challenge had to do with ruching and shirring.  I am absolutely amazed at the creativity showing up on the pinterest boards.  Looking for inspiration?  Each month we are all focused on the same design element and it is really fun to scan the #wardrobechallenge boards.

The new flickr page is showing off all your sewn garments and is absolutely fabulous!  This is where the wardrobe challenge is coming to life.   To show off your work, notice the photos showing up here on the blog.   Maybe you will give us tips on achieving the same look.

Before we get to the winners, quite a few of you asked:

Do I need to have a pinterest board and flickr page?  No.  The prizes will be divided up amongst both places each month.  That being said, this is a wardrobe challenge and the grand prize winner of the Brother PQ1500 sewing machine will need both.

Congratulation to Eve Kovacs the winner of February’s challenge and winner of Threads Insider Membership for one year!

This jacket was the kicker – fabulous design and gorgeous detailing.  Eve, everyone is going to want to know what pattern and any tips for sewing with this challenging fabric.  Can you share some tips for us in the comments 🙂  I personally want to buy this fabric, where did you get it?

Winner of WAWAK Sewing $50 gift card

Jana_Duplantis  Great shirring on the front and back of the dress!  Along with a few cute ruched tops – she is adding to wardrobe!

Winner of 1 Pattern, Many Ways DVD from Thread Magazine

Most unique pattern alteration goes to Shawn Hiestand – nice shirring!

Winner of It’s Sew Easy Season 5 DVD

 lkje9999  had quite a few ruched tops and jackets, nice job 🙂

The next two prizes were randomly drawn from February’s pinterest board.  Make sure to include pins from each sponsor every month to qualify for the random drawing 🙂

NEW SPONSOR:  Winner of Coats & Clark zipper collection

Sara Scott  – did you get your coverstitch machine?

Winner of my Craftsy Class Creative Serging!

Diya – by the way, I love that dress!

If you are a winner contact me at info@angelawolf.com

Congrats!!!  I will announce April’s challenge tomorrow … but I will give you a hint – it’s international serging month and keep up on the jeans, there will be another prize for the jeans in April!

cheers,

 

 

 

Introduction to WAWAK SEWING!

Some of you have asked about one of the generous sponsors of the Wardrobe Challenge and seeing my smiling face in the emails has peaked curiosity. I am thrilled to introduce you to WAWAK SEWING and yes, I am working closely with them on many new projects. WAWAK SEWING is an online resource for everything you need in your sewing and design room! Believe it or not, I have been buying from them since 1994, when I started my custom apparel business. I eventually expanded my business to include alterations and my two main sources for supplies became WAWAK SEWING and Atlanta Thread & Supply. I know a few of you were heart-broken when Atlanta Thread and Supply closed it’s doors. What you might not have realized is WAWAK acquired Atlanta Thread & Supply, now you only have to go one place for all the same supplies and the prices are still the best.
One of my missions with teaching sewing, alterations, and fashion design is to inspire people to sew. I will be working with WAWAK to supply you with sewing tips and even bring to attention some tools of the trade you might not be familiar with; yet will make your sewing life sew so much easier! You might have seen this on Pinterest, but I am giving you a glimpse of what’s coming … Sewing with Angela Wolf.  Make sure you sign up for WAWAK’s emails and monthly catalog, the sales are incredible and they offer free shipping on orders over $100. Actually, I have been scanning a few chat rooms and there was talk about a free cookie with their order. I had to check the facts on that, as I have not received mine yet 🙂 . In fact, they DO send a cookie with the first order over $75 (since my first order was 20 years ago I will give them a pass LOL). It’s like staying at the Hilton, order from the comfort of your home and the package arrives in a few days with a hot cookie!  Ok, probably not a hot cookie, but you get the idea.
For those of you enjoying the wardrobe challenge and you HAPPEN to be on facebook and twitter, if you have a second why not send WAWAK SEWING a quick comment thanking them for sponsoring my contest.  Although, I do think we should have another contest to see who can pronounce the name correctly LOL!
Do you have any sewing questions or tutorials you want me to consider for the new tutorials?

Cheers!

BTW how’s the ruching and shirring coming along?

February’s Wardrobe Challenge Ruching and Shirring! January’s Winners Announced …

January’s challenge was just to get you in the mood to sew and it looks like it worked!  So many of you are posting fabrics and patterns you plan on tackling this year.  February’s challenge includes ruching and shirring.  If you can’t tell I am a little addicted to ruching, well that and dyeing fabrics.  I can hardly stand to wear a top without ruching somewhere and the best part is that it can be done so quickly!  I have used this technique on so many garments, which of course I will share all month.  The look is flattering and adds a custom look.

Here is an old post or below is a quick video showing my simple technique (by the way, this is an old video and there was obviously an issue with sound and it’s not in stereo.  Ignore that and enjoy the technique :))

For February, add anything and everything ruched and shirred.  This can be a casual garment or go all out with an evening dress, whatever will inspire you to sew  🙂  In case you missed this, the challenges will be listed above under the link “Angela Wolf’s Wardrobe Challenge”.  At first I didn’t realize I had hidden the pages, so thanks to those that let me know. February’s challenge still takes place on Pinterest and adds another social venue for sharing photo’s, a flickr group.  This will be the location to enter your sewn or restyled garments.  For details on adding photo’s to this group click here.

February’s Pinterest: 

• Follow me on Pinterest
• Follow my Wardrobe Challenge 2014 board
• Create your own board Wardrobe Challenge 2014 (you might have already finished the first 3 steps in January, you will be using the same wardrobe challenge board all year J)
• Pin
  • adding hashtag #wardrobechallenge to the comments section pin inspiration for ruching and shirring.  Add at least one pin from each sponsor.
  • If you are entering February’s contest post a comment and link to your board right here.  It’s important to add a link to your pinterest board each month, then we know if you participated or not.

January 2014 Winners:

First of all, everyone’s boards are so inspiring!  Not that any of us need to spend any more time on Pinterest LOL, but this is really fun.  I have been scanning each of your wardrobe boards at night, it makes for really creative dreams 🙂  The judging was difficult, so the panel picked 3 top winners and randomly picked 2 more.  Congratulations Everyone!  If you are a winner contact me at info@angelawolf.com
Overall Best Wardrobe Ideas and over 100 pins!
1 year Threads Insider Membership winner Susie Dodd

Excellent pins and really went overboard supporting all the sponsors, not to mention she has well over 100 pins on her Wardrobe Challenge Board! 
$50 WAWAK sewing gift card winner Karla Hollett

This board is filled with fitting advice and tutorials, which is one of the most important parts of sewing success!
One Pattern, Many Ways Vol. 1 DVD winner Sandy Heller

The judges scanned all the Pinterest boards that were submitted in the January challenge and the ones that followed all the instructions, including pins from each sponsor were thrown into a hat … and the winners are:

It’s Sew Easy season 5 DVD winner Lori

Angela Wolf’s Create a Jacket Muslin on PatternReview.com Shawn Heiestand

Time-saving Sewing Tip! Pre-cut interfacing with Olfa in minutes!

I am thrilled to see all of the excitement for my 2014 Wardrobe Challenge! The month of January is so full of new years resolutions, crazy weather and catching up from the holidays, I wanted to make this month’s challenge simple and fun.  All you have to do is create a Pinterest board “wardrobe challenge 2014” and pin photos that inspire you. This is not a trick, just post anything that inspires you to design and sew, this can be absolutely anything.  Ideas: colors, animals, architecture, food (that is the downfall of pinterest, everyone posts such fabulous looking food, I swear I can smell it through the computer screen!)  Pin something from each sponsor – that can be a repin from their pinterest board or pin something from their website and leave a comment here or on my pinterest board with a link to your new board.  In case you need the links to the sponsors here they are again:  Brother, Threads and Sew Stylish Magazines, WAWAK sewing, It’s Sew Easy, Angela Wolf Patterns, and some of you couldn’t find my pinterest page.  Again, if you need an invitation to pinterest email me info@angelawolf.com.  For more details on January’s Challenge, there is still a week to enter, then we move on to February’s challenge!  Good Luck 🙂

Olfa 60mm Rotary Jumbo Cutter, Replacement Blade, and Cutting Mat from WAWAKsewing.com

Now, onto a quick time-saving tip.  When I sit down to sew, there are a few items that I quite often need and I find it faster to prepare these in advance.  One example is fusible interfacing: hemming jacket sleeves, plackets, zipper placement, bound button holes, these are just the first few areas I need the interfacing and to get up, unfold the interfacing and cut 1 strip is a total “time sucker”, my new word for the year!  For jacket hem’s I typically use 3″ to 4″ wide strips of interfacing and for the zipper placement 1″ to 1-1/2″ strips.

This is light-weight fusible interfacing (HTC fusi-knit) and with two layers you can still see through the interfacing to line up the 1″ grid on the Olfa cutting mat.

Keeping the grainlines and stretch of the interfacing in mind:

• cut strips parallel to the selvage 28″ long by 1 1/2″ wide.  The most common use for these strips is to support the center back seams on a dress when inserting a hidden zipper (I am hooked on sewing dresses lately!) and it is rare that I would need longer than 28″ for a zipper.

• cut strips perpendicular to the selvage 4″ long by the width of the interfacing (in this case 22″ wide).  These strips are perfect for re-hemming jackets and sleeve hems.  If you do alterations, this is really a bonus to have these cut strips on hand.

Store these strips in a photo box next to your sewing station and you are all set!

A few tips on the rotary blade:

Always clear your cutting area from pins!  It always amazes me how one little dent in the blade can ruin the cutting, but it is true.  Maybe it’s not quite as noticeable when cutting thick fabric, but try cutting bias strips of silk chiffon.  If the blade is damaged, even in the slightest bit, the cutting is fragmented and you end up cutting the strips over with scissors.  Pain in the tush 🙂   I used to try to sharpen the blades, but seriously I am trying to save time not cause more work.  The blades are not that expensive, especially this month they are 25% off at WAWAK sewing, time to stock up for a few months!  The replacement blades come in a nice plastic container.  As I am always fearful of throwing a blade in the trash, I use one of the containers to store bad blades.   See the blue dot in the photo above, that dot tells me this package is bad blades.  When its full, snap the container closed, add a piece of tape for extra security,  and toss with no worries.

Lastly, take extra precaution and close the blade cover when not in use.  It makes me crazy when anyone in my studio leaves the blade exposed when they are not using it!  I have a pretty long cutting table and I am often grabbing bolts of fabric and sliding patterns around, one slip could end up being a bloody mess.  Thankfully that hasn’t happened, but I have heard a few horror stories 😦

My question to you – Have you ever tried sharpening your old blades and did you have any luck or do you prefer stocking up on replacement blades when a great sale hits?

Have fun filling your pinterest board, remember to add #wardrobechallenge when sharing your experience!

cheers 🙂

 

Angela Wolf’s 2014 Wardrobe Challenge

Angela Wolf’s Wardrobe Challenge of 2014

I told you I had something in store for you, well here it is!  The inspiration for this challenge came when I changed my closets over from summer to fall.  I stepped back to admire the organized closet and realized I had made almost every outfit!  Wearing all my own designs has been a desire of mine from the time I started my custom apparel business in 1994, yet time has a tendency to hinder any quick results.  I blogged about my excitement with my closet of home sewn garments and received an instant response from many readers.  It turns out, many of you have this same goal of sewing all their own clothes, yet again time seems to be the crutch in achieving this goal.  Thus the idea of the wardrobe challenge came about.

The goal of the Angela Wolf Wardrobe Challenge is to inspire, mentor, and challenge you to fill their closets with your own home-sewn and re-styled garments … one garment at a time!

• The challenge will be run through my blog and other social media sites.
• The contest is open to anyone who is not directly associated with the sponsors (see the rules listed here).
• The entire contest is open to USA residents.  BUT, I can’t stand to leave out all my international friends, you are eligible to win the digital prizes  – these items will be marked with *, look for them each month.
• Participants are encouraged to share photos on flickr along with other social medial sites as twitter, facebook, instagram, and pinterest.  Use hashtag #wardrobechallenge when sharing your progress.
• There will be monthly prizes offered by our generous sponsors Brother, Threads Magazine, Sew Stylish Magazine, WAWAK Sewing, KS, Inc. Productions with It’s Sew Easy PBS series, and myself.  THANK YOU SPONSORS! 🙂

The challenge will start with planning a coordinating wardrobe (I can’t tell you how many jackets I have sewn and never worn, simply because they don’t match anything). Each month there will be a new theme with a certain garment to challenge you to sew.  Participate in 1 month, all 12 months, and/or just focus on a killer wardrobe for the overall challenge!  I will share more details soon, but I want you to get started on January’s challenge.  The details of the challenge are listed above and will take place on Pinterest.  Not on pinterest, no worries, email me at info@angelawolf.com and I will invite you.

January’s Challenge focuses on creating story board!  Pin anything you like that will inspire you to start adding to your wardrobe.  Fabric, Colors, Sewing Tips, basically anything that inspires you.

1 year … 13 challenges … GET INSPIRED TO SEW!!!!!

Are you up for the challenge?    Good Luck!

xoxo