Tag Archives: coats and clark

Creative Serging with Crochet Thread – Flatlock Stitching!

A little creative serging! I mentioned I am finishing up a serging book. The book has challenged me to play with new threads, new stitches, new serging feet, and more. I wanted to share a quick serging stitch that you might find useful for restyling or adding embellishment to one of your outfits.

How to sew with creative serging -  Angela Wolf

This is a 3-thread flatlock stitch with a decorative crochet thread in the upper looper.   The left needle and lower looper have a similar color polyester thread.  The photo above shows the front of the flatlock stitch and the backside.  The backside looks like a ladder stitch.  (the peach thread is just the serged edge of the seam).

How to sew with creative serging - Angela Wolf

I started with a basic gored skirt.  The front has 2 seams and after I finished flatlocking those two seams I decided to add embellishment to the center front.  So the center front really does not have a seam.  This would be a great way to create unique fabric!

How to sew a creative serged seam with Angela Wolf

Here is the back view.  Again there are 2 seams on each side back and this time there is a real seam down the center back with a hidden zip. In order for this stitching to look even, because of the zipper, I stitched the flat-felled embellishment down the edge of each center back seam, then added the zipper and closed the seam.  That part got a little tricky and you can see the stitches are not perfectly even.  I haven’t decided if I am going to rip it out and start again or hope nobody is looking at my tush that closely to notice 🙂

Stitch Tutorial:

  • Set your serger up for a 3-thread overlock – I will be using the Brother Project Runway 5434PRW and the standard setting for the needle and looper tensions are 4.  When I give you new tension numbers you can compare this with your machine.  If you are serging on the Babylock air-threading serger set up your serger for the 2-thread flatlock – wide.
  • Thread the upper looper (or the only looper for the 2-thread flatlock) with a decorative thread.  Use standard poly serging thread in the needle and lower looper.

 

crochet thread wawalDecorative Thread Ideas:

 

Get the idea –  be creative!


 

Next, there are a few changes to the serger settings:

Stitch Width: 5mm

Stitch Length: 2-4mm

Needle Tension:  Decrease to 0 -3 (remember my standard setting is 4 so adjust for your serger)

Upper Looper Tension:  Decrease  to 2 – 3

Lower Looper Tension: Increase to 6 – 9

Disengage the knife

These setting serve as a guide.  It will depend on the fabric and thread you end up serging with.

Blind Hem Stitch Foot

See if you have a Blind Hem Foot, if not you can use a standard foot.

There is a setting on the foot that moves to the right and left, allowing the needle to pierce more or less of the fabric.  Test the stitch on your fabric to determine the setting.

Fold the fabric in half or if you are embellishing a seam,  fold along the seam line.   Align the fabric along the shield on the blind hem foot (if using a standard foot, mark a spot to align with).

Flat lock stitching with Angela Wolf

The idea is for the needle to pierce the fabric –  half the stitch is on the fabric and half is off the fabric.  In fact the stitches look really messy coming out of the serger!

flat lock stitching with angela wolf

Stretch out the folded fabric to lie flat and press.

flat lock stitching with Angela Wolf

Pretty simple, but so fun!  Have you ever tried this before?  I would love some more ideas for decorative threads or yarns to use with this stitch.

wawak brother serger 1034D
Sale on Brother Serger at http://www.wawak.com

Today is officially the end of National Serging month, did any of you pick up a good deal on a serger?

If you are thinking of adding a basic serger to the sewing room, really inexpensively, take a look at this Brother 1034D – on sale for $217 and free shipping!  I had to double-check that, kind of thought it was a misprint  🙂  I have no idea how long the sale is on for or how many are in stock, but that is a great deal.

I will post March’s winners tomorrow evening.  Don’t forget to get April’s photos posted on Flickr and share your pinterest board before Thursday!  Good luck everyone 🙂

Looking for more creative serging ideas?  Join my on Craftsy with 50% OFF today!
Looking for more creative serging ideas? Join my online class Creative Serging – Beyond the Basics. Click here to get 50% OFF today!

xoxo

Angela Wolf

 

 

 

Simply Serged! April’s Wardrobe Challenge How to Sew Simple Apparel

April wardrobe challenge short

As we plug along with the wardrobe challenge, last month offered a chance for sewing designer jeans.  Jeans have become a staple in many of our wardrobes and after you get the hang of the fitting (I still have a few blog posts coming to help) and sewing techniques, jeans can really be fun to sew!  Taking in consideration that jeans can take a while to finish, I am adding an ongoing monthly prize for the best jeans on the Wardrobe Challenge flickr group!  I know many of you mentioned you were not finished and others might join the wardrobe challenge throughout the year – jeans are my favorite and now you can win each month by adding a new pair of jeans 🙂

angela wolf 1003

Onto April’s Challenge – Simply Serged!

This challenge is to come up with fashionable apparel that is quick and easy to finish, yet doesn’t look it.  I am a little selfish on this challenge as I am trying to finish my new serging book (available next spring) and if you all are working on serged outfits, I thought that would inspire me to finish faster 🙂  Also, this month is National Serging Month – not sure what that really means, except you will probably get a good deal on buying a serger if you are in the market for one. 🙂   The serger offers so much more than finishing seams and after sewing jeans or a couture jacket, it is so nice to jump on the serger and finish a silk top in less than an hour!  Take a look at this top:

The Angel Skinny Jean  #AW4212    Angela Wolf

Fabric:  Silk Charmeuse    Time: cut to finish 1 hour 30 minutes

Stitches: 3-thread overlock, coversitch, narrow rolled hem

This is just one example, but I will try to include some of my favorite creative stitches throughout the month.  I just received my new order from WAWAK Sewing  with a batch of thread.  I am trying out new ideas for the serger … I can hardly wait to test them and let you know the results!

Don’t have a serger?  Well, now is the time to buy one, but if you are not quite ready for one you can still participate in the wardrobe challenge on Pinterest.  I am still offering a prize for jeans on the Flickr group and you can still sew simple garments adding to your overall wardrobe.

wardrobe challenge sponsors.png2

Make sure to say Thanks and Like the sponsors pages on Facebook:  Brother,  Threads Magazine, Sew Stylish Magazine, WAWAK Sewing, Coats & Clark, It’s Sew Easy TV, and me 🙂

That’s all for now, onto laying out my fabrics.   Are you enjoying the challenge so far?

Cheers & Happy Serging,

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Winner’s of the February Ruching & Shirring Wardrobe Challenge!

Angela Wolf Promo 36I am so excited to announce February’s wardrobe challenge winners!  In case you didn’t notice, the competition is getting fierce – check out the Wardrobe Challenge flickr page and you will see some talented designers!

Thanks again to all the sponsors in this year’s challenge!

wardrobe challenge sponsors.png2

It took a little longer than expected to get February’s results, simply because a few of the judges were on spring break, thankfully that only happens once a year 🙂 Now we are back on schedule!

Angela Wolf patterns 2013 -222February’s challenge had to do with ruching and shirring.  I am absolutely amazed at the creativity showing up on the pinterest boards.  Looking for inspiration?  Each month we are all focused on the same design element and it is really fun to scan the #wardrobechallenge boards.

The new flickr page is showing off all your sewn garments and is absolutely fabulous!  This is where the wardrobe challenge is coming to life.   To show off your work, notice the photos showing up here on the blog.   Maybe you will give us tips on achieving the same look.

Before we get to the winners, quite a few of you asked:

flickrpinterest

Do I need to have a pinterest board and flickr page?  No.  The prizes will be divided up amongst both places each month.  That being said, this is a wardrobe challenge and the grand prize winner of the Brother PQ1500 sewing machine will need both.

Congratulation to Eve Kovacs the winner of February’s challenge and winner of Threads Insider Membership for one year!

Angela wolf wardrobe challenge February winner

This jacket was the kicker – fabulous design and gorgeous detailing.  Eve, everyone is going to want to know what pattern and any tips for sewing with this challenging fabric.  Can you share some tips for us in the comments 🙂  I personally want to buy this fabric, where did you get it?

Winner of WAWAK Sewing $50 gift card

Jana_Duplantis  Great shirring on the front and back of the dress!  Along with a few cute ruched tops – she is adding to wardrobe!

Winner of 1 Pattern, Many Ways DVD from Thread Magazine

Most unique pattern alteration goes to Shawn Hiestand – nice shirring!

Winner of It’s Sew Easy Season 5 DVD

 lkje9999  had quite a few ruched tops and jackets, nice job 🙂

The next two prizes were randomly drawn from February’s pinterest board.  Make sure to include pins from each sponsor every month to qualify for the random drawing 🙂

NEW SPONSOR:  Winner of Coats & Clark zipper collection

Sara Scott  – did you get your coverstitch machine?

Winner of my Craftsy Class Creative Serging!

Diya – by the way, I love that dress!

If you are a winner contact me at info@angelawolf.com

Congrats!!!  I will announce April’s challenge tomorrow … but I will give you a hint – it’s international serging month and keep up on the jeans, there will be another prize for the jeans in April!

cheers,

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How to sew topstitching that looks professional on jeans and jackets …

I hope you are all safe from hurricane Sandy and my heart goes out to all those affected.  We even experienced severe weather here in Michigan!   I made it to the beach yesterday and after getting stuck in the sand with our SUV, I was able to snap a few shots.  Unbelievable waves on Lake Michigan, over 20 footers.  I think I’ll pass on fishing for a few days 🙂

Lake Michigan during hurricane Sandy …over 20 foot seas!

Now onto sewing …. more specifically topstitching.  Topstitching jackets and jeans are not only a designer touch; this has become a main focus in today’s fashion.  The more creative the topstitching the more expensive your garment looks.  On that note, have you ever finished a great looking jacket only  to discover  you can’t find a matching color in the thick topstitching thread?  Would you like to hem your favorite jeans – again not being able to match the original jean thread color.  This video shows you an easy way to solve that problem, using two spools of Coats & Clark polyester thread and a #14 denim jean needle.  You will even get a peek at the automatic needle threader on the Brother Dreamweaver XE, yes it even works with 2 threads!  Enjoy 🙂

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.