Quilting Silk with the Muvit Foot creates Eye Candy!

In my mission to come up with fun and unique fabric manipulations, I thought I would test out quilting (taking a short break from embroidery this week ). And yes, I said QUILTING!  I am not sure about you, but as a fashion designer when I hear the word “quilting” I typically cringe! It’s not that I don’t think quilts are beautiful and I sure wouldn’t want to offend all my friends that have a passion for this art (especially my mother ) - but the fact of the matter is, the word itself makes many apparel sewer’s run the other way.  The term quilting gives me an instant vision of cotton, LOTS of cotton, and bins of more  cotton scraps that can be added to some project down the road.  I know, I am so judgmental!  I obviously overlook my bins of silk scraps that I know will fit into a pocket eventually.

But I think I should really take another look at this art, especially with fabric manipulation on the mind.  Besides, who made the rule you can only quilt cotton.  What about my favorite sewing technique, that is very Chanel inspired, where the silk charmeuse lining is “quilted” to the jacket fabric.  Very luxurious and looks fabulous!  Although we call it “Chanelism” not quilting.  Go figure!

Or have you seen the quilted leather shown by Proenza Schouler – definitely on the short list for a fall must-have!  Givenchy and Chanel both added some form of quilted leather to their collections.  I really love the way you can use quilting to create a unique looking fabric or you can place the quilting in particular area of the garment to add a custom design element.

So, as to not risk ruining a large piece of luxurious fabric, I thought I would try a small sample.  I am going to use silk charmeuse with batting and create Eye Candy (those of you that travel often will understand the name.)  This only requires a little fabric and should be easy for testing the quilting method before I add quilted silk to a garment.

Start with 2 pieces of silk charmeuse and 1 piece of batting.

Pin together the layers.

Use clay chalk to mark a straight line, diagonally across the fabric.

I am using the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot on the Brother Dreamweaver XE .  You could also use a walking foot or just a standard foot if you don’t have a the fancies

I am going to start the first row of stitching using my laser-vision as a guide to follow my chalk line.  Although, the light is a little hard to see, probably because I have the bright light turned all the way up on the machine – I swear I can get a suntan from the brightness LOL!

Then, using my foot as a guild, I am stitching row after row.  I noticed that sewing at a medium speed with the MuVit foot works the best, in fact the same is true for the walking foot on my Quattro.

After quilting the entire piece of fabric, I laid my pattern on top of the quilted fabric and cut it out.

I added an elastic band to the back, pinning in place at each side.

Then finished the edges with bias tape.  Here is a quick video if you want to see an easy way to make your own bias tape.

 That was very easy!  In fact this was going to be a gift, but I think I might have to keep this one for myself   So you can see the technique of quilting is pretty easy and it does work on other fabrics besides  cotton.  I have a few more fabrics I am going to try, I will let you know how they turn out.  But I can definitely see this quilted silk charmeuse used in a jacket or vest.   If you any photos of fabric manipulation post them on flickr here is my link to share or add them to facebook!  Inspire others by your creativity!  Cheers, xoxo Angela

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

Princess Embroidery on Silk

First off, thanks so much for the embroidery tips!  I started with simply adding letters on sueded silk, just trying to get a grip on rotating the word and changing the overall size.  I am happy to announce, embroidering letters is much easier than I thought.

I choose a font from the Brother Dreamweaver XE and all you have to do is push the letters on the touch screen.  Changing from upper case to lower case is a breeze.  Then another push of the button and the entire word rotated directions.  (I know I said no monogram towels for Christmas gifts, but I think I changed my mind – this is way too much fun!  Now I just need the machine to offer spell check :))

So here is where I screwed up … I was in a hurry and  grabbed a bobbin that was 1/3 full.  Instead of taking all that thread off the bobbin and starting fresh, I added more thread to that bobbin.  Not a big deal, unless you run out of bobbin thread!   This sewing machine has an automatic sensor that tells you when you are going to run out of thread.  Very cool feature, unless the machine doesn’t know you are going to run out of thread, which is exactly what happened here.  I was lucky the thread ran out at the end of my first “S”, but I still had to line up another “S” or change my idea to Princes (on pink fabric).  I played around with the laser light and found that I could tell the machine where to start the last letter.  Not too shabby!

I have big design ideas for my newly found passion for embroidery, but for the first few tests I am going to work on small pieces of fabric and share with those of you that are as much a novice as I am on this.

A few emails rolled in about how exactly to embroidery the jeans and I thought this photo might help.  Remember there were 3 hoopings on each leg.  The front pockets were already attached and the back was finished, except for the back pocket.  I waited to add the back pocket because I was worried the fabric would be too thick under the embroidery hoop.  You can see how the design started large near the hip, then smaller, and then even smaller at the ankle.

I am off to buy more embroidery thread and needles.  Thanks to many of you for your advice, I think this is going to be fun.  In the next post I will show you what the Princess is for and add more texture to the fabric.  Have a great week!  Cheers   Angela

Fabric Manipulation … The Trend of 2013

I have a new fetish for altering fabrics and I am on a mission to test some new and old techniques and see if they will fit into high-end fashion.  Embroidery is definitely high on the list,  and I am not talking about embroidered bunny’s on the front of my sweatshirt or his and her towel’s (although I have to practice somewhere  :)   I am more thinking about using embroidery to create new fabrics and using that fabric in my garments.  A few ideas I am going to try:

• attaching two unusual textures
• quilting silk charmeuse
• sleeve embellishment
• embroidered jeans
• embroidery + needle felting
• distressing
• adding faux fur
• shirring

Just a touch of ideas and I am going to give them a try over the summer, looking into my fall wardrobe.  I don’t expect them all to be a success, but I know this will be fun!  So to kick off my experiment I thought I better learn how to embroider.  These jeans were my first embroidery project last May, not too shabby if I don’t say so myself.  The jean  pattern is an altered version of my Angel Bootcut Jean and the embroidery design I created on Brother’s Dreamweaver  .  Trust me, I had no idea what I was doing but these new embroidery machines tell you what to do!

I sewed the jeans in a little different order starting with the front and back pockets and then the outside seam.  A bit of a risk, after all that work, that the embroidery turns out awful.  Looking back,  you would think I would have tested the design on something, even a scrap of fabric.  I am too stubborn for that.  Each leg took 3 hooping’s and at first the total embroidery hours for both legs was tallying up to be 26 1/2 hours … YIKES!  Then I realized that each color would only embroider for a few minutes and I would have to keep changing threads (this is only a one thread embroidery machine, in case you might think I have the fancy one).   I decided to change the order of color, even if it altered the final design.

The embroidery design:  I changed the design from being a little larger in the top (1st hooping) a little smaller in the middle (second hooping) and really small at the ankle (third hooping).  Minus a few mistakes (which I won’t point out ) I was really pleased with the final results.

One thing I learned with embroidering stretch denim – after you embroider, the denim doesn’t stretch.  Just keep that in mind and make alterations to your pattern to allow for that non-stretch, especially if you are sewing skinny jeans or jeggings.  I am planning on embroidering another pair of jeans with all one color of thread, I am thinking black fabric with silver thread or something along that line.

Any embroidery tips for me would be greatly appreciated, I have a lot of fabric I want to try (especially silk charmeuse).  There is so much to learn and take into account.  For example, embroidery thread.  There are a ton of choices, any advice on the what’s the best and why?  I would love to know the scoop!

Until then,

Cheers!

Angela

Sewing a Zipper with the Laser Vision Guide with Brother Dreamweaver

Hope you are all enjoying February, I can hardly believe it’s almost over! I spent last week taping season 5 for It’s Sew Easy TV, despite the cold and snow – we had a successful week. Here is one of my favorite photo’s on set with June Mellinger (Brother) and Christopher Straub (Project Runway). I have to say, he is one talented designer! He even left an autographed handbag for Katie, my ninth grade apprentice. She absolutely adores him and I can’t wait to see her face when she opens her gift   By the way, that handbag in the photo is fabric he designed.  I foresee an order with spoonflower soon.

I have been busy working on some custom garments and my new collection, which I will be sharing over the next few weeks, including launching some new patterns. First, I have to share one of my last gown dilemma’s.  The fabric was gorgeous, but challenging to work with … slipper, shiny, textured, get the idea? I was having a heck of a time inserting the back zipper. I couldn’t use a hidden zipper, as I could not find a color to matched the fabric. The problem occurred when I was topstitching around the zipper. I hand basted in the zipper, marked the center back seam with chalk (that was also basted closed), and marked the stitch line with chalk.  The fabric really presented a challenge with the texture. Being a total perfectionist, I ripped the topstitching out twice because it just was not straight enough. Then I remembered the Laser Vision Guide on my Brother Dreamweaver XE VM6200D.  This worked like a charm!  I was able to line up the laser light with center back seam and topstitch perfectly straight, all the way around the zipper.  I won’t forget about that handy tool next time.  Here is the short video I put together if you want to see more details.  Now, back to the cutting table.  Enjoy   xoxo Angela

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

How to Sew Texting Gloves with Angela Wolf

 With Christmas around the corner, you know I can’t resist coming up with a few fun gifts items to sew. How about a pair of texting gloves! I don’t know about you, but I really get annoyed when I have to take off my gloves in order to answer my phone, text, or check an email. Instead of buying gloves and cutting off the fingertips, I decided to whip up a pair of custom gloves. These are easy and fast to sew, not to mention you can customize how tight and tall you want them and not worry about your rings getting in the way.  Did I mention they are GREAT for fishing!

The video below walks you through the entire process, including another glimpse at the V-Sonic Pen Pal feature on the Brother Dreamweaver XE.  In short, here are the steps:

1.  Measure around your knuckles, this will be the width of your gloves.

2.  Measure from your knuckles up your wrist and come up with a length measurement.

3.  Chalk mark your stitch lines, making sure to block out the area for your thumb.

4.  Stitch and press your seam allowance open.

5.  Fold the glove in half so the folded edge is at your knuckles.

6.  Hand stitch the thumb hole closed.

7.   Serge the raw edge.

That’s it!  You can add beading, decorative stitching, embroidery … by the way, if you add embroidery, do so before you sew the gloves together.  This is such an easy project.  Show everyone how creative you are and post photo’s on my facebook or pinterest page of your new gloves.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Until then,  cheers and stay warm!  xoxo Angela      … wait until you see my next gift idea 

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

www.AngelaWolfPatterns.com

How to Hem Jeans with the Brother MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot

Dark jeans are really in trend this fall so that means distressing with a hammer might not be an option.  I have tested the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot on the Brother Dreamweaver XE and believe it or not, after sewing over many thick seams there was not one skipped stitch!  The only thing I added was a #14 denim jean needle and various thicknesses of denim.  This foot is different from a walking foot, not only because it has a rolling belt, but the foot plugs into the sewing machine giving the foot it’s own brain … or something like that.  You can then adjust the foot by pressing a few buttons on the sewing machine.  I have to say technology is really making sewing fun and easy!

The video below shows you just how smooth this digital dual feed foot works and I even tested it on one of my new jean patterns.  Which by the way,   I am happy to announce my first two jean patterns are up and available!  Both patterns come with detailed sewing instructions in a book format, very easy to follow.  The other bonus that comes with both of these jean patterns is a downloadable PDF file, download to your tablet and you can enlarge the photos for detailed viewing.  The PDF file offers color photos and details on where to distress the jeans as you sew.  My goal is to help you sew jeans that fit perfect and look expensive   Enjoy and don’t forget about the previous videos on sewing jean pockets if you need a little extra help.  Hope you had a great Thanksgiving weekend, lot’s of family, food and shopping on my end.  Wait until you see my new shoes (and yes that’s plural!)  xoxo Angela

   

www.AngelaWolfPatterns.com

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

Learn How to Ruch a Simple Tee

My first pattern The Ruched-T has been out a few months now and I have really enjoyed all the emails and facebook postings from everyone wearing their new tops    A few of you have asked how I do the ruching and I thought the best way to explain is to just show you.  So I have put together a short video and of course I had to show another awesome feature on the Brother Dreamweaver XE VM6200D, the multi function foot controller.  This special foot allows you to use your feet to backstitch,  cut the thread, put the needle down, etc. and then you can keep your hands on the fabrics while sewing!  Wait until you see this one!  Anyway, enjoy ruching your tee’s and keep sending me photo’s, I love it    xoxo Angela

 

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

 

How to sew topstitching that looks professional on jeans and jackets …

I hope you are all safe from hurricane Sandy and my heart goes out to all those affected.  We even experienced severe weather here in Michigan!   I made it to the beach yesterday and after getting stuck in the sand with our SUV, I was able to snap a few shots.  Unbelievable waves on Lake Michigan, over 20 footers.  I think I’ll pass on fishing for a few days

Lake Michigan during hurricane Sandy …over 20 foot seas!

Now onto sewing …. more specifically topstitching.  Topstitching jackets and jeans are not only a designer touch; this has become a main focus in today’s fashion.  The more creative the topstitching the more expensive your garment looks.  On that note, have you ever finished a great looking jacket only  to discover  you can’t find a matching color in the thick topstitching thread?  Would you like to hem your favorite jeans – again not being able to match the original jean thread color.  This video shows you an easy way to solve that problem, using two spools of Coats & Clark polyester thread and a #14 denim jean needle.  You will even get a peek at the automatic needle threader on the Brother Dreamweaver XE, yes it even works with 2 threads!  Enjoy

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

How to Sew Designer Jean Pockets … Part 2 Adding the Coin Pocket

Here is part 2 for finishing off the front of your designer jean pockets.  This video will show you how to add a coin pocket, which is totally optional.  Sometimes I add a logo instead, just depends what kind of mood I am in    Of course I have to show off a few other features on the Brother Dreamweaver XE VM6200D, like using the V-Sonic PenPal to determine how wide my zigzag stitch will be – you really have to see it to believe it.  Now, I just have to finalize the last of the Angela Wolf Jean Patterns so we can ship them out soon, wish me luck!  xoxo Angela

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own

Sewing the Front Pockets on Designer Jeans (part 1)

Another quick lesson on sewing designer jeans, sewing the front pockets.  I have broken this into two parts as this lesson will cover attaching the silk charmeuse lining and topstitching the pocket edge.  The next lesson shows how to add a coin pocket and closing up the lining.  To get started you will need your front jean pieces and the pocket lining.  You will usually find cotton as the fabric for the pocket lining, but I prefer to use something a little more luxurious, like silk charmeuse.  Because the silk is so thin you can’t see the pockets through the outside of the jean, not to mention the fabric feels awesome against the skin.

Again, experimenting with some of the new features on my Brother Dreamweaver XE VM6200D stitching this pocket is painless. First off, look at the size of the new “J” foot. (The picture has the original foot alongside the new foot).  The longer length really makes a difference when sewing across layers of fabric.  The foot glides across humps, thicker seams, even uneven edges as the pocket we will topstitch.  I call this a BIG plus!

Onto sewing the pockets … pin your silk charmeuse lining to the denim fabric along the curve of your pocket.  You can stitch from either side, I chose to stitch with the denim on the top so you can see the sew straight laser vision guide a little better.  I have aligned the laser with the raw edge of the fabric, allowing me to sew the entire pocket curve with a precise seam allowance.

Press the Pocket Lining … Turn the lining to the inside of the pocket and steam press, using the tailor’s clapper to permanently hold that crease (shown on video below).

Topstitch the Pocket Edge … Again, utilizing the laser light to make sure my first topstitch line is perfectly placed 1/8″ from the edge of the pocket curve.  Then I move the laser light to align with the previous topstitch line, but here is a new one for you.  I am able to use the v-sonic pen pal to touch where I want the laser light to move to.  You have to check out the video below to get the full visual of this unique feature, but simply put … engage the pen pal, touch the bed of the sewing machine where you want the laser light to shine, and hit OK.  That’s it!  Just imagine how easy sewing straight rows of topstitching will be

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own