Tag Archives: Fashion

Creative Serging with Crochet Thread – Flatlock Stitching!

A little creative serging! I mentioned I am finishing up a serging book. The book has challenged me to play with new threads, new stitches, new serging feet, and more. I wanted to share a quick serging stitch that you might find useful for restyling or adding embellishment to one of your outfits.

How to sew with creative serging -  Angela Wolf

This is a 3-thread flatlock stitch with a decorative crochet thread in the upper looper.   The left needle and lower looper have a similar color polyester thread.  The photo above shows the front of the flatlock stitch and the backside.  The backside looks like a ladder stitch.  (the peach thread is just the serged edge of the seam).

How to sew with creative serging - Angela Wolf

I started with a basic gored skirt.  The front has 2 seams and after I finished flatlocking those two seams I decided to add embellishment to the center front.  So the center front really does not have a seam.  This would be a great way to create unique fabric!

How to sew a creative serged seam with Angela Wolf

Here is the back view.  Again there are 2 seams on each side back and this time there is a real seam down the center back with a hidden zip. In order for this stitching to look even, because of the zipper, I stitched the flat-felled embellishment down the edge of each center back seam, then added the zipper and closed the seam.  That part got a little tricky and you can see the stitches are not perfectly even.  I haven’t decided if I am going to rip it out and start again or hope nobody is looking at my tush that closely to notice 🙂

Stitch Tutorial:

  • Set your serger up for a 3-thread overlock – I will be using the Brother Project Runway 5434PRW and the standard setting for the needle and looper tensions are 4.  When I give you new tension numbers you can compare this with your machine.  If you are serging on the Babylock air-threading serger set up your serger for the 2-thread flatlock – wide.
  • Thread the upper looper (or the only looper for the 2-thread flatlock) with a decorative thread.  Use standard poly serging thread in the needle and lower looper.

 

crochet thread wawalDecorative Thread Ideas:

 

Get the idea –  be creative!


 

Next, there are a few changes to the serger settings:

Stitch Width: 5mm

Stitch Length: 2-4mm

Needle Tension:  Decrease to 0 -3 (remember my standard setting is 4 so adjust for your serger)

Upper Looper Tension:  Decrease  to 2 – 3

Lower Looper Tension: Increase to 6 – 9

Disengage the knife

These setting serve as a guide.  It will depend on the fabric and thread you end up serging with.

Blind Hem Stitch Foot

See if you have a Blind Hem Foot, if not you can use a standard foot.

There is a setting on the foot that moves to the right and left, allowing the needle to pierce more or less of the fabric.  Test the stitch on your fabric to determine the setting.

Fold the fabric in half or if you are embellishing a seam,  fold along the seam line.   Align the fabric along the shield on the blind hem foot (if using a standard foot, mark a spot to align with).

Flat lock stitching with Angela Wolf

The idea is for the needle to pierce the fabric –  half the stitch is on the fabric and half is off the fabric.  In fact the stitches look really messy coming out of the serger!

flat lock stitching with angela wolf

Stretch out the folded fabric to lie flat and press.

flat lock stitching with Angela Wolf

Pretty simple, but so fun!  Have you ever tried this before?  I would love some more ideas for decorative threads or yarns to use with this stitch.

wawak brother serger 1034D
Sale on Brother Serger at http://www.wawak.com

Today is officially the end of National Serging month, did any of you pick up a good deal on a serger?

If you are thinking of adding a basic serger to the sewing room, really inexpensively, take a look at this Brother 1034D – on sale for $217 and free shipping!  I had to double-check that, kind of thought it was a misprint  🙂  I have no idea how long the sale is on for or how many are in stock, but that is a great deal.

I will post March’s winners tomorrow evening.  Don’t forget to get April’s photos posted on Flickr and share your pinterest board before Thursday!  Good luck everyone 🙂

Looking for more creative serging ideas?  Join my on Craftsy with 50% OFF today!
Looking for more creative serging ideas? Join my online class Creative Serging – Beyond the Basics. Click here to get 50% OFF today!

xoxo

Angela Wolf

 

 

 

It’s Sew Easy Episodes Now Online!

Is your local PBS a little behind the times and not yet airing It’s Sew Easy?  No worries, every week It’s Sew Easy will show one of their weekly episodes online.  Totally free of charge and if you register on the website there are even additional tutorials you can follow.  A new episode starts every Friday at noon and today starts Episode 113. Rebecca Cornell and Christy Howden open the show with felting techniques for a fun toy. Next, Tricia Waddell and Katrina Loving have a mom friendly tip for reinforcing seams for heavy wear on stuffed animals and clothing. Then, Sheree Schattenmann creates a simple duvet for a baby’s room. Angela Wolf wraps up the show and the first season of It’s Sew Easy showing how to distress jeans for a fashion look suitable for kids, teens, and moms. 

Tips for Sewing and Styling Jeans by Angela Wolf

Tips for Sewing and Styling Jeans by Angela Wolf

Threads and Sew Stylish posted a blog with my tips on styling and sewing designer jeans.  Check out my full article in the summer issue of Sew Stylish Magazine that hits shelves this month.  If you have any questions or looking for fabulous denim fabric, send me a note.  Cheers!  Angela

How to Make Bias Tape the Easy Way with Simplicity

Making bias tape has never been easier!  It is really important to make sure your bias strip are really cut on the true bias.  Here are a few tips to make sure you have success:

 To find the true bias:  lay your fabric on a flat surface.  It is easier if there is a grid to follow in order to line up your grainlines.  Here I line up the crosswise grainline and the fabric salvage.

Take one corner and pull the fabric to match the selvage with the crosswise grain.  This will create a triangle.

When working with slippery fabric, use a weight at one end so you can maneuver the fabric around.  The bias is along the folded edge.

Align a see through ruler along the bias edge.  I want 2″ bias strips so the first cut will be at the 1 inch mark because I am on the fold.

Now you will see you have a nice cut line on the bias.  I then take the bias line and fold the fabric in half, so I don’t have to cut so far.  I also move the fabric so I can line up the edge of the fabric along my grid underneath.

Again, using the see through ruler, cut every 2 inches.

Keep cutting strips until you run out of fabric.  I always cut more than I need, you never know when you might need a strip of bias!

Does anyone have any other tips for cutting bias strips …  especially when cutting slinky, slippery fabric?  I would love to hear your ideas.

Testing Brother’s PE-Design Next for Custom Embroidery

I have been putting off trying this software out for the simple fact I don’t have the time to learn an entire new program.  Little did I know that in less than 30 minutes I would have custom embroidery at my fingertips!  This software is so easy to use, the navigation, the titles, the options, etc.    That’s why I am sharing this quick video with you, just in case you are thinking of upgrading to Brother’s PE-Design Next software, it is totally worth it.

Now I have all weekend to create new designs, can’t wait!  I even noticed I can upload a picture for embroidery, that’s a little scary LOL!  Although, I have some cute pictures from my nephew’s 1 and 2 year birthday party last weekend with lot’s of colorful cake.  I wonder how many colors of embroidery thread I am going to need for this?

Cody turns 1

The Angela Wolf  logo gets an upgrade :)

Tips for Sewing one of this Seasons Hottest Trends … Faux Fur

Angela Wolf Collection Faux Fur
Fashion Designer: Angela Wolf ... Photographer: Johnson-Rauhoff ... Models: Laine Lu VonBehren, Jennifer Knapp, Jenna Warren ... Hair & Makeup: Shawn Frandsen and Sarah Schilling

If you saw my post a few months back, I showed off a few pieces of gorgeous faux fur that I bought at Haberman Fabrics.  Well, I promised to give a rendition of the experience of sewing with faux fur and hopefully pass on a few lessons.   I must admit this time around seemed so much easier than I remember.  One of my first faux fur jackets, a thick white shaggy fur  …  I still have visions of coughing up fur balls for weeks, right alongside my cat.  Not only that, I ended up with white fuzz/fur all over my clothes for weeks!

Either the furs are easier to sew or I learned a few lessons from the first episode.   So here are a few tips:

  • Trace your pattern, with clay chalk onto the back of the faux fur.   (I love the backing on this fur!)
  • Use sharp scissors!  Start cutting from the back.  Slide your scissor tip between the faux fur and the backing and cut in small snips, being carful to only cut the backing and not the faux fur.

  • I use Kai Scissors.  These scissors are so sharp, I can literally slide the tip of the scissors right around the pattern pieces.  (They work great when trimming Sherpa fabric as well).
  • Notice that I am only cutting the backing, leaving all the faux fur intact.  Cut small snips at a time.
  • I used the salvage as the front seam and then folded it back and tacked it in place.

  • Trim your seam allowances.  This really does not take long, again my Kai Scissors worked fantastic.  I read that I should try an electric razor, but this worked perfectly.  Maybe, I’ll try the razor next time 🙂

  • You can see here the seam allowance is all trimmed and ready to sew.  That was it!  I used the same process on all of the faux furs.

All in all, I really enjoyed sewing up these faux furs and believe it or not, one quick vacuum and the studio was back to normal.  Although, I must confess, I could not part with the cute little faux fur scraps.  So I have decided to use them as bows on my Christmas gifts 🙂

Fashion Designer: Angela Wolf ... Photographer: Gregg Rizzo ... Model: Dawn Yarborough ... Hair & Makekup: Shawn Frandsen & Sarah Schilling

Fashion Club – Color Blocking with Angela Wolf on PatternReview.com starts December 1st

Join me for Fashion Club on Patternreview.com .  This month learn to transform a simple shirt or pattern with color blocking.  Combine different fabrics and seams to create unique one-of-a-kind garments.This process is so easy!  The concept not only works for combining unique fabrics like knits and silk charmeuse as shown in the top above, but also in creating unique seams in a basic pattern like in the faux leather skirt.

Click here for a Preview of the Color Blocking Online Class     Class starts December 1st and stays open for the entire month.

Coming in January … The Classic French Jacket on Patternreview

Angela Wolf Collection
Angela Wolf Collection

Fabric for the Holiday Season by Angela Wolf on PatternReview.com

Get inspired to sew something for the holidays with this months Fashion and Trends Column on PatternReview.com

Angela Wolf Collection Photographer: Johnson-Rauhoff Model: Amy McWhirter

Angela Wolf Collection

Photographer:  Johnson-Rauhoff      Model:  Amy McWhirter

Sewing with Faux Fur on PatternReview by Angela Wolf

Faux Fur is a must have for this season!  I have a few tips for sewing with these messy fabrics on PatternReview  and I see that Kenneth King is teaching an online class on sewing a faux fur coat.

I found these gorgeous faux furs at Haberman Fabrics in Royal Oak, Michigan.  Now I am just trying to make up my mind on what to make,  probably a vest out of one and a collar out of another.  I am cutting this afternoon so we’ll see 🙂

The 2 Second Color Check …

The 2 second color check before you buy fabric and clothing …

 

Great silk charmeuse outfit ... Not so great color for me!

 The color of fabric or outfit you choose is as important as the style, if not more.  Just because a fabric may be so gorgeous you can’t resist, that doesn’t mean this will look good on you – wouldn’t you rather know before you spend hours sewing up the perfect jacket.  I will never forget when I made a pair of olive-green silk charmeuse pants with a coordinating wrap blouse.  I spent hours on sewing this outfit, not to mention the price tag of silk charmeuse!   I felt like a million bucks every time I put it on – the problem was that I didn’t look like a million.  Every time I wore this out people would ask me if I was feeling ok, I soon realized that the color was washing me out.  So here is your color tip … hold up the fabric to your face and look in the mirror:

  • If you look washed out or “sick” find another color or a different tone within that color pallette (for example instead of a yellowish teal look at the teal with a blue undertone)
  • If your cheeks become rosy and bright – BINGO you found one of your perfect colors!

This seriously takes 2 seconds, and works every time.  If you have a fabric that you know is not one of your “Bingo” colors, try layering it and using a better color closer to your face.  Good Luck!