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How to Sew a Curved Welt Pocket

angela wolf fashion sewing welt pocket

Getting back to sewing jackets … by any chance did you happen to catch last weeks episode on It’s Sew Easy TV where I demonstrated adding a curved welt pocket.  Welt pockets can be a little intimidating because once you cut into the garment, you can’t change your mind! In case you missed the episode, here is a quick recap:

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1.  Interface the entire jacket front and side front  pattern pieces (not only does that prevent the fabric from fraying, it supports the pocket).  Similar to a standard welt pocket, take two bias strips of fashion fabric, add fusible interfacing, and press in half.  Draw the curve line of the pocket onto the right side of the fashion fabric.  Turn the welts with the fold side away from the chalked in line (or make sure the raw edges are touching) and stitch along the center of the welt flap.  Notice how I have  also chalk marked the ends of the pocket opening.

IMG_19062.  Turn the jacket over and on the wrong side of the garment you will see the stitch lines (I obviously used a yellow thread so you can see this :)).  Starting about 1″ in from one end of the stitching, cut into the fashion fabric.  Cut right in the middle of the stitch lines and end the cut about 1″ before the other stitch end.  Going back to the 1″ that we left alone, snip each corner from the cut line to the edge of the stitch line.  Do this for all four corners – as shown above.

3.  (See below) What is left is a slit with each welt on each side.  Pull the welts through the open slit, toward the wrong side of the fabric.

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Angela Wolf Curved Welt Pocket Fashion Sewing

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4.  Align the welts and press.  Run a basting stitch through the fold of each welt.  Now the pocket opening won’t slide around while finishing the pocket.

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5.  Topstitch 1/8″ from the edge of the welt pocket.  The pocket shown above is a straight welt style, yet the topstitching you see would be the same on the curved welt.  Add the pocket lining.  That’s it!

This weeks It’s Sew Easy episode demonstrates preparing the jacket collar and lapel.  Have you been following along and sewing your own jacket?  On that note, I better giveaway another one of my online jacket classes:  Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Jackets on PatternReview.  Entering to win is easy, leave a comment below about what you find the most intimidating about sewing jackets.  (A random winner will be drawn on Friday).

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Don’t forget ALL my PatternReview online classes are on sale for the rest of the week.  Why?  Just a special thanks to all of you that support my teaching.  Speaking of support, thanks to your votes in the Craftsy 2013 Blogger Awards, we won Runner-Up for Sewing Best Instructor’s Blog!  You all are awesome!!!! Thanks 🙂

Congratulations to Stephani the winner of my PatternReview class Create a Jacket Muslin !

 

Cheers!

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Sewing Your Own Wardrobe and ONLINE CLASS SALE on PatternReview.com!

Angela Wolf Pattern Collection Butler TrenchThere is only one reason I have not moved South in order to enjoy beautiful sunny weather all year round … jackets and boots!  This is the time of year I rearrange my wardrobe, bringing out all the cute jackets I finished last March and never had a chance to wear (remember in the fashion industry we are always designing a season ahead).   Of course while I am pulling out the fall wardrobe, out come the fabulous boots.  I LOVE shoes!   I sew all my own clothes, I have to find something to shop for besides fabric 🙂

Speaking of sewing all my own clothes, about 15 years ago I set a goal of only wearing clothes I had sewn myself.  It was a great idea, but hardly possible.  I spent all my time sewing custom garments for clients and I could never find time to sew for myself.  You know, like the shoemaker that wears worn-out shoes.  Those of you that are in the sewing business know exactly what I am talking about.

Once I started designing a ready-to-wear line and a pattern collection for the home sewer, I found a perfect reason to sew for myself.  Someone has to test the fit, right 🙂  Over the last few years I have been adding my label to the closet with jeans, tops, jackets, dresses, skirts, slacks,  … In fact last night after admiring my organized closet (now is the time to admire, it never seems to stay that way very long), I realized I finally accomplished my goal!  Every garment carried the Angela Wolf label.  I could hardly believe it!  In fact, once you get going on sewing for yourself, the outfits flow in much faster than you think.  Have you ever had the desire to sew all your own clothes?  I challenge you to try.  I am going to celebrate this accomplishment and try to focus on doing the same for the spring wardrobe swap.  I feel a 2014 wardrobe sew along coming on … what do you think?
Vote for me for Craftsy's blogger awards!
In the last post, I mentioned how thankful I am to all of you readers and a special thanks to those that voted my blog into the finals for the category sewing – best instructor blog for the 2013 Craftsy Blogging Awards.  Voting in the final round is still going on, so make sure to vote for your favorites again  (hint, hint).   I couldn’t think of a better way to thank you than give away a few online classes, which I will do over the next few weeks.

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Not everyone can win, so I asked my friend Deepika – founder of PatternReview.com – to place all my online classes on sale for the rest of the month.  In case you haven’t visited the site, PatternReview.com is a great website for learning and connecting with other garment sewer’s.  I offer quite a few classes there, including sewing jackets.  No, my jacket patterns are not ready to launch yet, so this is the next best thing.  The next few giveaways will be for my online classes.  The first one is Create a Jacket Muslin on PatternReview.  Creating a perfect fitting muslin is the most important part of sewing a jacket.   If you would like a chance to join my class on sewing a muslin where I offer fitting tips, solutions, and you can even upload photos of your muslin for personal fitting advice, simply share a comment about your experience in fitting jackets.  Never sewn a jacket, even better reason to start with the muslin class (a random winner will be chosen and announced next Friday).  Speaking of jackets, have you been watching season 5 on It’s Sew Easy and following along as I sew a jacket?  If your PBS doesn’t carry It’s Sew Easy, you can catch a new episode every week on their website.

Good Luck 😉

xoxo

Angela Wolf

A BIG THANK YOU!!!!

Vote for me for Craftsy's blogger awards!I woke up this morning to an email that made me very happy and I have YOU to thank 🙂  Just so you know, you made my day!!!!!  In case you missed it, Craftsy is holding their 2013 blogging awards.  Round one of voting is finished and your votes placed my blog into the finals in the category of Sewing – Best Craftsy Instructor Blog.  There are only 4 of us and now another round of voting continues until October 29th – Of course I am hoping you will vote again 🙂

First, let me tell you how encouraging this was to hear.  Writing a blog and posting video tutorials does take up quite a bit of time, but I personally do so in order to  encourage you to sew.  Not only sew, but to sew clothes and sew clothes that look like they walked out of a boutique with a high price tag.  I have been sewing my own clothes for over 20 years (that just gives me a reason to buy more shoes and handbags LOL) and I love sharing what I have learned with you.

So what happens now?  There is a final round of voting that will end on October 29th and Craftsy is offering a free class to one of the lucky voters.  For me, I already feel like a winner.  As a special thank you for the support you have already shown and encouragement for you to vote again during these final weeks (bribery never hurts right :)) I am going to offer a few giveaways. Angela Wolf Bootcut Jean

Recently I offered a free Crafty class to my new Sewing Designer Jeans class that will launch later this month and a huge CONGRATULATIONS to the winner Marie C..  Well, the class doesn’t include a pattern.  Why?  Because maybe you copied your favorite pair in Kenneth D. Kings class or you already have a favorite jean pattern from my friend Jennifer Stern or you like the range of sizes in Jalie … just to name a few of my favorite reasons.  During the class, I will be using my  Angel Bootcut Jean pattern (my current pattern includes misses sizes 0 – 16 and I am diligently working on the women’s sizes 16W – 24W) and I even show you how to alter the pattern for a higher or lower waist (amongst other fitting issues).  So, it only seems appropriate to giveaway one of my jean patterns.  How can you win?  Pretty simple – let me know why you want to sew my jean pattern and please vote in the final round on Craftsy (remember you can win a free class on Craftsy just for voting).  Afraid of sewing jeans – no worries, it’s really easy.  Remember back when I showed you videos on how to sew pockets.  There are lots more, just scroll through my posts about sewing jeans.  I will announce the winner of jeans pattern on Monday and I will announce another “thank you” giveaway tomorrow.

Again, THANK YOU so much for making my day today 🙂  xoxo Angela

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Embroidery Embellishment and Congrats to Serger Class Winner!

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Getting new samples ready for It’s Sew Easy TV season 6 taping, I am finishing designing new dresses and experimenting with embellishing with embroidery.  I have had this purple raw silk for years and really like the color, but it’s SO bright by itself!  I will probably color block with black for one of the designs, but for this one I wanted to try adding a touch of embellishment.  This is the start (obviously I have not pressed out the embroidery hoop marking) …

I found this flower in the Brother Quattro sewing machine.  The flower was originally a medium size, so I tried to make it as large as possible for one of the flowers and as small as possible for the other.  This was so easy to do!  Using the touch screen I was able to enlarge the flower and move the design to the top left of the screen, which will embroider in the top left part of the hoop.

angela wolf brother embroidery quattro1You can see below how the first larger flower is embroidering on the top left side of the hoop.

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angela wolf brother embroidery quattro8First flower looks great!

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For the second flower –  I turned the shape upside down, made the flower as small and narrow as possible, and moved the shape to the bottom right side of the hoop.

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Looks pretty good!!!!!  I used a silver metallic thread, although you can’t see that very well from the photo’s – clean and simple.

As far as designing, I cut the bottom of the dress to allow for a straight skirt or adding darts or pleats to the waistband.  I am definitely adding the darts 🙂   I will post photos when the dress is finished.

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Congratulations Wilma Coats the winner of my Creative Serging Class on Craftsy!  Again, here is a coupon if you would like to join us in a fun, creative online class.

Elastic Thread Ruching on a Coverstitch plus FREE SERGING CLASS!

Ruching with Elastic Thread on a Serger / Coverstitch Machineelastic ruching chainstitch angela wolf serging overlock6

Loose flowing tops are right on trend right now, here is a quick way to add a little flair and fit with one of my favorite serging techniques; ruching with elastic thread.  Add the ruching to the sleeve edge, hem or neckline. This is so cute and really easy!  This ruching can be done on a sewing machine by winding the elastic thread in the bobbin, threading the machine with any silk, cotton, or polyester thread, and stitch with a narrow zigzag. What about serging with the chainstitch?  The chainstitch is found on coverstitch machines or sergers with the added coverstitch function.

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SET UP THE SERGER / COVERSTITCH MACHINE    For this sample I am using my  Brother 1034D 3 or 4 Thread Serger with Easy Lay In Threading with Differential Feed
.  Thread the machine like you would for a chainstitch:  use thread in the needle and elastic thread in the looper.  Be patient with the elastic thread, but it will go through the machine just fine 🙂         

Adjust the tension:

  • Loosen the needle tension  (loosen by 2 notches)
  • Tighten the looper tension (start by tightening 1 notch)

When adjusting the tensions, my coverstitch has a standard setting at 4 –  so adjust the tension on your machine accordingly.  Then simply run the edge of the fabric through the serger.  The photo’s below show you the front and back side of the first row of stitching.

Elastic Ruching with a Coverstitch Mahcine

Back side of elastic ruching

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Put the fabric back in the machine, line up the previous row of stitching with the edge of the presser foot and stitch.

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That it! I usually ruch 2 – 6 rows depending on the design.  Another idea is to ruch the waist on a skirt – the elastic ruching makes a great waistband and then you wear the waist high or low.  I will dig up a photo of my silk bathing suit cover up that is sewn like this.

FREE SERGING CLASS GIVEAWAY!

Speaking of using a coverstitch and overlock machine – I have a class on Craftsy called Creative Serging – Beyond the basics.  I am giving away a FREE CLASS to one lucky reader. All you have to do is leave a comment below telling me why you would like to take the free class.  Click over and “‘like” my facebook page and you will get 2 entries.  If you leave a comment on the facebook page you get an extra entry as well (that’s 3 entries total :)).  One name will be drawn randomly on August 1st.  I know many of you are already in my class as we are just under 5,000 students, awesome!  For those of you that are already enjoying the class, leave a comment as to what you like most about the class and I will include you in the next giveaway (trust me, it will be good :))

If you don’t want to wait for the drawing, here is a coupon for big savings on the class.  Good luck!!!!!!   Cheers 🙂  Angela

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“Contemporary Couture Jacket” Online Class on PatternReview.com

Angela Wolf sewing couture jacketA well-made jacket can show off an outfit to its best.  Join me on PatternReview  for the fundamentals and fine points of creating a contemporary couture jacket (hint: my version of the traditional Chanel jacket).

You’ll love the comfort and style of this jacket… it feels more like a sweater! It’s the perfect topper for jeans or more formal dress.  This couture jacket is a must-have for the modern lifestyle!

The class offers 12 videos with 2 hours and 45 minutes of HD video.  There is also a 164 page PDF file with photos and close up details of every step.

  • Selecting fabric and lining.
  • Creating a 3-piece sleeve, laying out the pattern, and cutting the fashion fabric.
  • Attaching fusible interfacing, finishing the edges, and cutting the lining.
  • Using a couture technique to quilt the lining.
  • Sewing a jacket with a plaid.
  • Preparing and hand-stitching the lining.
  • Sewing the sleeve vent and attaching sleeves.
  • Covering shoulder pads.
  • Trim ideas, including a tutorial on how to crochet your own trim!
  • Closure options including custom covered buttons.
  • Pockets with a couture touch.
  • And last but not least, adding the prestigious weighted chain.

  Join me 🙂

Thinking you don’t have time for a few hours of hand-stitching a couture jacket?  Why not bring the jacket with you!  Seriously, I hand-stitched the lining on this jacket while fishing (see the finished jacket below).  The lining is hand-dyed (and not with fish blood and guts :))    Fishing and sewing might be an odd combo, but it worked.  How about you, any fun sewing stories that can beat fishing?  Now be nice 🙂   Cheers xoxo Angela

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How to Sew Texting Gloves with Angela Wolf

texting gloves angela wolf With Christmas around the corner, you know I can’t resist coming up with a few fun gifts items to sew. How about a pair of texting gloves! I don’t know about you, but I really get annoyed when I have to take off my gloves in order to answer my phone, text, or check an email. Instead of buying gloves and cutting off the fingertips, I decided to whip up a pair of custom gloves. These are easy and fast to sew, not to mention you can customize how tight and tall you want them and not worry about your rings getting in the way.  Did I mention they are GREAT for fishing!

The video below walks you through the entire process, including another glimpse at the V-Sonic Pen Pal feature on the Brother Dreamweaver XE.  In short, here are the steps:

1.  Measure around your knuckles, this will be the width of your gloves.

2.  Measure from your knuckles up your wrist and come up with a length measurement.

3.  Chalk mark your stitch lines, making sure to block out the area for your thumb.

4.  Stitch and press your seam allowance open.

5.  Fold the glove in half so the folded edge is at your knuckles.text gloves Angela Wolf

6.  Hand stitch the thumb hole closed.

7.   Serge the raw edge.

That’s it!  You can add beading, decorative stitching, embroidery … by the way, if you add embroidery, do so before you sew the gloves together.  This is such an easy project.  Show everyone how creative you are and post photo’s on my facebook or pinterest page of your new gloves.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Until then,  cheers and stay warm!  xoxo Angela      … wait until you see my next gift idea  🙂

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

www.AngelaWolfPatterns.com

Tips for Sewing and Styling Jeans by Angela Wolf

Tips for Sewing and Styling Jeans by Angela Wolf

Threads and Sew Stylish posted a blog with my tips on styling and sewing designer jeans.  Check out my full article in the summer issue of Sew Stylish Magazine that hits shelves this month.  If you have any questions or looking for fabulous denim fabric, send me a note.  Cheers!  Angela