Category Archives: Fashion

My Blog Has Moved …

A few things have moved around and here is where you can find me…

The blog have moved to www.FashionSewingwithAngelaWolf.com 

Join me on Facebook LIVE every week, with a recap on YouTube.

You can also sign up for my newsletter by clicking here!

Online classes:  Angela Wolf Academy, Bluprint, and Patternreview

Join me!

 

March’s Wardrobe Challenge … Sewing Designer Jeans!

wardrobe challenge marchWhat an impressive finish to February’s challenge, Ruching & Shirring. The photos posted on flickr are fabulous!  Take a second and click on over and see what these talented sewer’s came up with, such creativity!  And don’t be surprised if you see one of your photo’s on my blog, I have added  pictures from the wardrobe challenge flickr group to the right side of the page.  The photos randomly change, so enjoy previewing the outfits as they arrive  🙂

And the pinterest side of the challenge …  I periodically scan each of your “wardrobe challenge boards” and I must say, my mind is filled with new ideas to add to my apparel, what inspiration!  Don’t forget you can follow each others wardrobe challenge boards, inspire each other to sew 🙂  February’s winners will be announced soon, the judges are busy at work.  In the meantime, let’s talk jeans …

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March’s Challenge is to design, sew, and restyle jeans.  Many of you have mentioned a fear of sewing jeans.  The fit and the fly are the main concern, guess what – there are great patterns and so many resources to help you along, now it’s time to jump in!

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My online class Sewing Designer Jeans on Craftsy launched last October and we are just shy of 5,000 students.  Now that’s a lot of jean sewer’s  :).  This class walks you through the entire process of sewing jeans from cutting to the final hem.  And just to promote my Wardrobe Challenge, here is a 50% off for the entire month of March.  Worried about fit,  join my Altering Pants class on Patternreview (which is also on sale)  where you can post photo’s of your muslin for personal fitting advice.  Looking for a few free tips, refer to the jean category on my blog.  There are even video tutorials for sewing pockets.  Now you have not excuse not to give it a try.

Patterns

ThereAngela Wolf patterns 2013 -209 are so many jean patterns available now.  My Angel Bootcut Jean Pattern is my go-to pattern, I taper the legs for skinny jeans, raise and lower the rise, offers a contour waistband for fit and it’s easy to adapt denim with stretch or without.  The sizing currently goes up to size 16 (but I promise I am working on the sizing 16W – 24W sometime in 2014).  Use coupon code MARCHMADNESS for 20% off all jean supplies in my store (yes, that includes rivets, jean buttons, and the It’s Sew Easy jean dvd :)).  My two other favorite jean patterns … Jalie and Jennifer Stern’s ( I adore Jennifer, she is my jean buddy).  You can find reviews for both on PatternReview.com.

Well, that’s enough to get started!  This month I will share major fitting solutions for jeans and much, much more.  Check out March’s Wardrobe Challenge page (now located at the top right) for all the details on the pinterest challenge and flickr info.  Are you new to the challenge and need an invite to pinterest, email me info@angelawolf.com.  I would love you to join us!

Did I mention we have a new sponsor, Coats & Clark.  Yeah, just in time for denim thread!   Join me on Twitter to give a shout out of thanks to our sponsors:

angela_wolf_patterns001004  WAWAK sewing, Threads Magazine, Brother Sews, It’s Sew Easy TV, Coats & Clark

Well are you ready to give it a go?   Good luck!!!!!!

xoxo

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One Pattern, Many Ways!

This is my new DVD with Threads Magazine and this was a fun one. I took a basic pattern and teach you how to alter one pattern into 4 different styles. Click here for details and behind the scenes photos with the crew!

How to Prepare & Sew a Jacket Lapel (another giveaway)

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When I asked what part of sewing jackets you find the most intimidating to sew, many of you left a comment about the collar and lapel.  I must have had a premonition, as this week’s episode of It’s Sew Easy gives you a few tips for success.  You are right, the collar and lapel is what really makes your jacket stand out … and the good news …  it’s easier to sew than you think.  In fact, sewing is only a minute part involved in tailoring a collar.  The most time-consuming part involves preparing the center front jacket, upper collar, and under collar pattern pieces with interfacing and twill tape, not to mention pad stitching if you are going the traditional tailoring route.  The weight of the interfacing will determine the thickness and stability of your lapel and collar, so be sure to test a sample first.  My two favorites for jackets are armo-weft fusible interfacing (shown here) and horse hair canvas (perfect if you plan on pad stitching – which I will show in a later blog post).  Fusible interfacing can be added in layers if you need more structure at the end of the lapel, keep that in mind if you interfacing supply is limited.

Despite adding interfacing, extra measures need to be taken to prevent the neckline and center front of the jacket from stretching out.  Twill tape is the perfect solution!  Look closely and you can see hand stitching attaching the 1/4″ wide cotton twill tape to the front edge of the jacket.  As I am hand stitching, I am holding the twill tape tight and allowing the jacket fabric to ease in.  Not too much easing though!  Make sure the jacket doesn’t change shape or become skewed.

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What about that perfect roll on the lapel?  Again, twill tape is hand stitched to the roll line (the roll line should be printed on your jacket pattern)

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When hand stitching the twill tape to the roll line, keep the twill tape tight (tighter than when we added twill tape to the center front and neckline).  Again, easing in the fashion fabric.  I use a pin to hold one end of the twill tape and start stitching from the other end.  You can see below how much I am easing!

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Here I started hand stitching the twill tape in place, the main part of the stitch is on the twill tape and I am just picking a short fiber in the fashion fabric, then back through the twill tape.  You can barely see the stitching from the right side of the fabric.  When you are finished steam press the lapel roll using a seam roll.  Again, for more details see this weeks episode of It’s Sew Easy, scroll to the bottom of their page and click on the video.

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Another Giveaway, this one is for my online class:  Sewing a Designer Unlined Jacket on PatternReveiw.com.  Does your favorite jacket style close in the center front or asymmetrically?  Just tell us your preference to enter the jacket class giveaway.  (A random winner will be drawn next Monday)   Congratulations to last weeks winner JRP53 who will be joining me in the  Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Jackets on PatternReview!   Good luck on your jackets!

Cheers 🙂

Angela Wolf

How to Sew a Curved Welt Pocket

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Getting back to sewing jackets … by any chance did you happen to catch last weeks episode on It’s Sew Easy TV where I demonstrated adding a curved welt pocket.  Welt pockets can be a little intimidating because once you cut into the garment, you can’t change your mind! In case you missed the episode, here is a quick recap:

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1.  Interface the entire jacket front and side front  pattern pieces (not only does that prevent the fabric from fraying, it supports the pocket).  Similar to a standard welt pocket, take two bias strips of fashion fabric, add fusible interfacing, and press in half.  Draw the curve line of the pocket onto the right side of the fashion fabric.  Turn the welts with the fold side away from the chalked in line (or make sure the raw edges are touching) and stitch along the center of the welt flap.  Notice how I have  also chalk marked the ends of the pocket opening.

IMG_19062.  Turn the jacket over and on the wrong side of the garment you will see the stitch lines (I obviously used a yellow thread so you can see this :)).  Starting about 1″ in from one end of the stitching, cut into the fashion fabric.  Cut right in the middle of the stitch lines and end the cut about 1″ before the other stitch end.  Going back to the 1″ that we left alone, snip each corner from the cut line to the edge of the stitch line.  Do this for all four corners – as shown above.

3.  (See below) What is left is a slit with each welt on each side.  Pull the welts through the open slit, toward the wrong side of the fabric.

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Angela Wolf Curved Welt Pocket Fashion Sewing

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4.  Align the welts and press.  Run a basting stitch through the fold of each welt.  Now the pocket opening won’t slide around while finishing the pocket.

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5.  Topstitch 1/8″ from the edge of the welt pocket.  The pocket shown above is a straight welt style, yet the topstitching you see would be the same on the curved welt.  Add the pocket lining.  That’s it!

This weeks It’s Sew Easy episode demonstrates preparing the jacket collar and lapel.  Have you been following along and sewing your own jacket?  On that note, I better giveaway another one of my online jacket classes:  Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Jackets on PatternReview.  Entering to win is easy, leave a comment below about what you find the most intimidating about sewing jackets.  (A random winner will be drawn on Friday).

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Don’t forget ALL my PatternReview online classes are on sale for the rest of the week.  Why?  Just a special thanks to all of you that support my teaching.  Speaking of support, thanks to your votes in the Craftsy 2013 Blogger Awards, we won Runner-Up for Sewing Best Instructor’s Blog!  You all are awesome!!!! Thanks 🙂

Congratulations to Stephani the winner of my PatternReview class Create a Jacket Muslin !

 

Cheers!

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A BIG THANK YOU!!!!

Vote for me for Craftsy's blogger awards!I woke up this morning to an email that made me very happy and I have YOU to thank 🙂  Just so you know, you made my day!!!!!  In case you missed it, Craftsy is holding their 2013 blogging awards.  Round one of voting is finished and your votes placed my blog into the finals in the category of Sewing – Best Craftsy Instructor Blog.  There are only 4 of us and now another round of voting continues until October 29th – Of course I am hoping you will vote again 🙂

First, let me tell you how encouraging this was to hear.  Writing a blog and posting video tutorials does take up quite a bit of time, but I personally do so in order to  encourage you to sew.  Not only sew, but to sew clothes and sew clothes that look like they walked out of a boutique with a high price tag.  I have been sewing my own clothes for over 20 years (that just gives me a reason to buy more shoes and handbags LOL) and I love sharing what I have learned with you.

So what happens now?  There is a final round of voting that will end on October 29th and Craftsy is offering a free class to one of the lucky voters.  For me, I already feel like a winner.  As a special thank you for the support you have already shown and encouragement for you to vote again during these final weeks (bribery never hurts right :)) I am going to offer a few giveaways. Angela Wolf Bootcut Jean

Recently I offered a free Crafty class to my new Sewing Designer Jeans class that will launch later this month and a huge CONGRATULATIONS to the winner Marie C..  Well, the class doesn’t include a pattern.  Why?  Because maybe you copied your favorite pair in Kenneth D. Kings class or you already have a favorite jean pattern from my friend Jennifer Stern or you like the range of sizes in Jalie … just to name a few of my favorite reasons.  During the class, I will be using my  Angel Bootcut Jean pattern (my current pattern includes misses sizes 0 – 16 and I am diligently working on the women’s sizes 16W – 24W) and I even show you how to alter the pattern for a higher or lower waist (amongst other fitting issues).  So, it only seems appropriate to giveaway one of my jean patterns.  How can you win?  Pretty simple – let me know why you want to sew my jean pattern and please vote in the final round on Craftsy (remember you can win a free class on Craftsy just for voting).  Afraid of sewing jeans – no worries, it’s really easy.  Remember back when I showed you videos on how to sew pockets.  There are lots more, just scroll through my posts about sewing jeans.  I will announce the winner of jeans pattern on Monday and I will announce another “thank you” giveaway tomorrow.

Again, THANK YOU so much for making my day today 🙂  xoxo Angela

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“Contemporary Couture Jacket” Online Class on PatternReview.com

Angela Wolf sewing couture jacketA well-made jacket can show off an outfit to its best.  Join me on PatternReview  for the fundamentals and fine points of creating a contemporary couture jacket (hint: my version of the traditional Chanel jacket).

You’ll love the comfort and style of this jacket… it feels more like a sweater! It’s the perfect topper for jeans or more formal dress.  This couture jacket is a must-have for the modern lifestyle!

The class offers 12 videos with 2 hours and 45 minutes of HD video.  There is also a 164 page PDF file with photos and close up details of every step.

  • Selecting fabric and lining.
  • Creating a 3-piece sleeve, laying out the pattern, and cutting the fashion fabric.
  • Attaching fusible interfacing, finishing the edges, and cutting the lining.
  • Using a couture technique to quilt the lining.
  • Sewing a jacket with a plaid.
  • Preparing and hand-stitching the lining.
  • Sewing the sleeve vent and attaching sleeves.
  • Covering shoulder pads.
  • Trim ideas, including a tutorial on how to crochet your own trim!
  • Closure options including custom covered buttons.
  • Pockets with a couture touch.
  • And last but not least, adding the prestigious weighted chain.

  Join me 🙂

Thinking you don’t have time for a few hours of hand-stitching a couture jacket?  Why not bring the jacket with you!  Seriously, I hand-stitched the lining on this jacket while fishing (see the finished jacket below).  The lining is hand-dyed (and not with fish blood and guts :))    Fishing and sewing might be an odd combo, but it worked.  How about you, any fun sewing stories that can beat fishing?  Now be nice 🙂   Cheers xoxo Angela

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Quilting Silk with the Muvit Foot creates Eye Candy!

Angela Wolf Pattern CollectionIn my mission to come up with fun and unique fabric manipulations, I thought I would test out quilting (taking a short break from embroidery this week :)). And yes, I said QUILTING!  I am not sure about you, but as a fashion designer when I hear the word “quilting” I typically cringe! It’s not that I don’t think quilts are beautiful and I sure wouldn’t want to offend all my friends that have a passion for this art (especially my mother :)) – but the fact of the matter is, the word itself makes many apparel sewer’s run the other way.  The term quilting gives me an instant vision of cotton, LOTS of cotton, and bins of more  cotton scraps that can be added to some project down the road.  I know, I am so judgmental!  I obviously overlook my bins of silk scraps that I know will fit into a pocket eventually.

But I think I should really take another look at this art, especially with fabric manipulation on the mind.  Besides, who made the rule you can only quilt cotton.  What about my favorite sewing technique, that is very Chanel inspired, where the silk charmeuse lining is “quilted” to the jacket fabric.  Very luxurious and looks fabulous!  Although we call it “Chanelism” not quilting.  Go figure!

Angela Wolf Kristy Jacket

Or have you seen the quilted leather shown by Proenza Schouler – definitely on the short list for a fall must-have!  Givenchy and Chanel both added some form of quilted leather to their collections.  I really love the way you can use quilting to create a unique looking fabric or you can place the quilting in particular area of the garment to add a custom design element.

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So, as to not risk ruining a large piece of luxurious fabric, I thought I would try a small sample.  I am going to use silk charmeuse with batting and create Eye Candy (those of you that travel often will understand the name.)  This only requires a little fabric and should be easy for testing the quilting method before I add quilted silk to a garment.

Angela Wolf Eye Candy

Start with 2 pieces of silk charmeuse and 1 piece of batting.

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Pin together the layers.

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Use clay chalk to mark a straight line, diagonally across the fabric.

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I am using the MuVit Digital Dual Feed Foot on the Brother Dreamweaver XE .  You could also use a walking foot or just a standard foot if you don’t have a the fancies 🙂

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I am going to start the first row of stitching using my laser-vision as a guide to follow my chalk line.  Although, the light is a little hard to see, probably because I have the bright light turned all the way up on the machine – I swear I can get a suntan from the brightness LOL!

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Then, using my foot as a guild, I am stitching row after row.  I noticed that sewing at a medium speed with the MuVit foot works the best, in fact the same is true for the walking foot on my Quattro.

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After quilting the entire piece of fabric, I laid my pattern on top of the quilted fabric and cut it out.

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I added an elastic band to the back, pinning in place at each side.

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Then finished the edges with bias tape.  Here is a quick video if you want to see an easy way to make your own bias tape.

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 That was very easy!  In fact this was going to be a gift, but I think I might have to keep this one for myself 🙂  So you can see the technique of quilting is pretty easy and it does work on other fabrics besides  cotton.  I have a few more fabrics I am going to try, I will let you know how they turn out.  But I can definitely see this quilted silk charmeuse used in a jacket or vest.   If you any photos of fabric manipulation post them on flickr here is my link to share or add them to facebook!  Inspire others by your creativity!  Cheers, xoxo Angela

Angela Wolf Eye Candy

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

How to Sew Texting Gloves with Angela Wolf

texting gloves angela wolf With Christmas around the corner, you know I can’t resist coming up with a few fun gifts items to sew. How about a pair of texting gloves! I don’t know about you, but I really get annoyed when I have to take off my gloves in order to answer my phone, text, or check an email. Instead of buying gloves and cutting off the fingertips, I decided to whip up a pair of custom gloves. These are easy and fast to sew, not to mention you can customize how tight and tall you want them and not worry about your rings getting in the way.  Did I mention they are GREAT for fishing!

The video below walks you through the entire process, including another glimpse at the V-Sonic Pen Pal feature on the Brother Dreamweaver XE.  In short, here are the steps:

1.  Measure around your knuckles, this will be the width of your gloves.

2.  Measure from your knuckles up your wrist and come up with a length measurement.

3.  Chalk mark your stitch lines, making sure to block out the area for your thumb.

4.  Stitch and press your seam allowance open.

5.  Fold the glove in half so the folded edge is at your knuckles.text gloves Angela Wolf

6.  Hand stitch the thumb hole closed.

7.   Serge the raw edge.

That’s it!  You can add beading, decorative stitching, embroidery … by the way, if you add embroidery, do so before you sew the gloves together.  This is such an easy project.  Show everyone how creative you are and post photo’s on my facebook or pinterest page of your new gloves.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Until then,  cheers and stay warm!  xoxo Angela      … wait until you see my next gift idea  🙂

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

www.AngelaWolfPatterns.com

Learn How to Ruch a Simple Tee

My first pattern The Ruched-T  (now available in sizes XXS – 5X and paper or downloadable :))has been out a few months now and I have really enjoyed all the emails and facebook postings from everyone wearing their new tops 🙂   A few of you have asked how I do the ruching and I thought the best way to explain is to just show you.  So I have put together a short video and of course I had to show another awesome feature on the Brother Dreamweaver XE VM6200D, the multi function foot controller.  This special foot allows you to use your feet to backstitch,  cut the thread, put the needle down, etc. and then you can keep your hands on the fabrics while sewing!  Wait until you see this one!  Anyway, enjoy ruching your tee’s and keep sending me photo’s, I love it 🙂   xoxo Angela

Brother™ has provided me with the DreamWeaver XE, but all opinions expressed are entirely my own.